Cook Islands: A drop in the ocean

RoyalAuto magazine

Blue water meets bluer sky on South Seas outpost the Cook Islands, where Gary Tippet achieves total disconnection from the outside world. 

May 2018


“Not connected.” Two words to send a chill through so many device-dependent millennials, Gen X and Y types – and all the rest of us so happily entangled in the world wide web.

But look on the bright side. If you’re going to be suddenly disconnected, where better than on an island paradise in the middle of the Pacific Ocean?

On the morning we touch down in Rarotonga, capital and largest of the 15 Cook Islands, a fire engulfs the nation’s core mobile phone exchange at Aroa. What equipment is left untouched by the flames is fried by the firefighters’ water. There is no back-up.

‘To set foot on the Cooks is to step back to a kinder, gentler, unhurried world.’


A reefcrest parrotfish. Photo: Imagefolk


Suddenly there is no mobile service and next to no landline coverage on the two main islands. Satellite connectivity and international calling facilities disappear, wi-fi goes dead, there is no internet. And at restaurants, hotels and other businesses, credit card and eftpos facilities are unresponsive. Hand-printed signs go up everywhere: “Cash only”.

But do we care? Why would we?

To set foot on the Cooks is to step back to a kinder, gentler, unhurried world of island tourism. The main road that circles Rarotonga runs for just 32 kilometres with a laid-back top speed of 50kmh, though in “built-up” stretches you’re restricted to 40 or 30kmh. 


Sunday singers. Photo: Imagefolk



Palms meet sand and sea. Photo: Pacific Resort Rarotonga


In no bigger hurry, lean, lazy dogs and scrawny chooks amble across the bitumen or flop on the verges. There are no traffic lights and it seems half the locals, in their little cars or motorbikes, take the time to smile or wave as they pass.

That’s likely because we are with one of the islands’ official Kia Orana Ambassadors, Aunty Lydia Nga, who wears a perpetual grin as bright as the floral ’ei katu circlet of gardenias on her head and greets almost everyone with a call of “Kia orana, daaarling!”

‘What draws most is that classic South Seas combination of blue water, bluer sky, sand, swaying palms, jungle and coral.’

Basically, in Cook Islands Maori, that means hello. But on a deeper level kia orana is a wish that you have a long, happy life. And disconnected from the hurly burly of modern life, it’s easy to imagine having one out here in the Big Blue.


Photo: Cook Islands Tourism


The Cook Islands – a self-governing nation tied to New Zealand through what is known as a free association agreement – encompasses more than two million square kilometres of the Pacific. But its 15 small atolls and islands have a total land area comparable to a medium-sized city – the other 99.9 per cent is ocean.

Only about 15,000 Cook Islanders remain in the tiny nation, half of them on Rarotonga, but every year around 10 times that number of tourists fly in. And what draws most is that classic South Seas combination of blue water, bluer sky, sand, swaying palms, jungle and coral.

At Muri, the main tourist hub on Raro’s south-east corner, people criss-cross the lagoon on kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, kite-surfers, small yachts or wearing snorkels and propelled by flippers. The more adventurous scuba-dive or swim with turtles outside the reef.

‘The singing, in Maori, is – there’s no other word for it – heavenly.’

We, though, slip into the eternity pool at our luxurious Te Vakaroa Villas to the sound of drumming, ukuleles and singing from next door. Another party-hardy group is heading out with our neighbours, the comical crew from Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes. Lunch is local Matutu lager and a fried, fresh-caught mahi mahi fish sandwich the size of a shovel blade, at Charlie’s Cafe.

At night there are clubs, bars and restaurants or the buffet dinner and show at Te Vara Nui Cultural Village, where musicians and dancers tell a beautiful folklore story, ‘The Legend of Tongaiti’, by torchlight on floating stages in a water garden, lovingly re-purposed from a taro swamp.

For the audience there’s an added frisson of excitement during the show as mobile coverage momentarily flickers to life before fading to black again. And that’s fine by us.


A costumed dancer.  Photo: Imagefolk



Mahi mahi fresh from the ocean. Photo: Getty



Te Vara Nui Cultural Village. Photo: Imagefolk


A little way up the road from our villa are two iconic spots in Cook Islands history and culture. At Avana, at the top of Muri Lagoon, is the site from where, in 1350AD, Maori legend has it that seven vaka – ocean-going double-hulled canoes – began the migration that settled New Zealand. (Which is why Kiwis here are often greeted with “Welcome home”.)

Across the road is the Ngatangiia Cook Islands Christian Church. John Williams of the London Missionary Society arrived here in the 1820s to spread Christianity. Islanders took to the gospel with enthusiasm and most are still devout – though Williams was less successful on Vanuatu  where, in 1839, he was killed and eaten by cannibals.

Even for the non-religious, the 10am service at a CICC church should not be missed. The singing, in Maori, is – there’s no other word for it – heavenly.

‘We hunker down and wait for rainless intervals to paddle kayaks inside the reef.’

As the fervour rises, it takes on wonderful call-and-response patterns, mixed with the traditional island vocal style known as imene tuki, loosely translated as “singing with beat”. The women, most wearing gorgeous, intricately woven rito hats, take one part, in soprano, and are answered by the deep, rafter-shaking tenor and bass of their menfolk. At times teenage girls add a third element, in alto. It is spine-chillingly moving.

Another surprisingly immersive – and perhaps old-fashioned – experience is a progressive dinner where guests are bussed between three courses – and conversations – at different homes.

So at John and Nona Henry’s place we talk of the Cook Islanders diaspora – around 70,000 now live in New Zealand and Australia – and eat entrees of pawpaw salad, taro, kumara and arrowroot, and ika mata, the delicious and addictive lemon-cured raw tuna in coconut cream. 


Paddling is child’s play on reef and lagoon. Photo: Imagefolk


At Kafo Tuteru’s home, we eat chicken, banana poke, chop sui and native spinach while serenaded by her “houseboy”, husband Pae – actually a judge in the Rarotonga courts. And at Terai and Archer Moana’s, we learn of the countless uses of Nu, the coconut palm or “tree of life”, and as proof eat a sweet-as marshmallow baked pudding made with the spongy innards of an old, sprouted coconut.

In Cook Islands Maori, this has been ’aka’o’o, the showing of hospitality and friendship, and to receive it is a tourist’s rare privilege.

Another is to fly into hook-shaped Aitutaki, 220 kilometres to the north. Rightly considered one of the most beautiful lagoons in the world, with a necklace of small uninhabited islands inside its surrounding reef, it appears out of the deep blue ocean as a sparkling patch of turquoise. That is it would, if fat, unmoving clouds weren’t dumping rain.

What to do? We hunker down in our villa at Aitutaki Escape, wait for rainless intervals to paddle kayaks inside the reef, slip into our own small pool or head to Tupuna’s Restaurant for more ika mata.

And even in the intermittent downpours next day, a Vaka lagoon cruise, with a barbecue lunch on a Polynesian-style catamaran, music, swimming and snorkelling – where we’re greeted by Gina the giant trevally and her mates, torpedoing between us – is irresistible.

And finally there’s wi-fi available, emails waiting, news to catch up on. But no. The rest of the world can wait.     


CRUISE IT

Visit Rarotonga on a 14-night Holland America Line cruise, Papeete return, from $2599pp twin share in October 2018 or April 2019.

RACV members save 5 per cent when booking with RACV Cruises & Tours.

VISIT

racv.com.au/cruisesandtours or call 1300 850 884.

WHERE ARE THEY?

The Cook Islands lie deep in the South Pacific Ocean, 4800 kilometres from Australia to the west, and 8700 kilometres from Peru to the east.

New Zealand is 3000 kilometres to the south.

Niue and French Polynesia are its closest island neighbours, each about 1000 kilometres away.

Gary Tippet was a guest of Cook Islands Tourism.

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